從小在媽媽的薰陶之下喜歡香香的的東西,記憶中,媽媽一定會撒上香水才出門,美美的媽媽和美美的香水是連在一起的。爸爸出國也一定會帶香水回來送媽媽和我們姊妹,印象最深的是迪奧的毒藥香精,深紫色的圓潤玻璃瓶,躺在內襯絲絨的硬盒裡,只要輕輕在手腕劃上一小滴,就能聞到令人愉悅的芬芳,記憶中,毒藥香水是甜味而複雜的,跟成熟貴氣的香柰兒五號香精一樣是屬於媽媽的味道。爸爸送給我和妹妹的常是小瓶的香水禮盒,通常ㄧ盒有五瓶左右精緻的縮小版香水,多是各大品牌的經典名香,讓人收藏用的。嬌蘭的經典香水當然不是小孩子能承受的,我和妹妹只愛把玩那些特殊形狀顏色的小巧玻璃瓶,有些還在瓶口繫了紅穗,把一堆小香裝進布袋裡,叮鈴鈴地讓人愛不釋手。有幾次,也好奇瓶子裡的神密液體是什麼味道,跟妹妹開始一瓶瓶的試香,所謂經典香水,果然名不虛傳,數十年前調製出來的味道,再經典,對小學生來說還是太古老。所以我們塞上了瓶拴,繼續我們對香水的純欣賞。長大後我開始尋找屬於自己的味道,一開始總喜歡越淡越好,濃的香水令人頭暈,常常因為喜歡前味就買下整瓶,回家後才後悔變調的中後味跟想像差距甚遠,所以櫃子裡堆積了不少香水瓶,但是真正穿在身上的很少。大學開始,慢慢找到自己喜歡的味道,我喜歡fresh的味道,一穿上去讓人有活力的味道,所以柑橘類或綠色香調的香水常常贏得我的芳心,像是嬌蘭花草水語系列的葡萄柚香水、薄荷青草香水、每年都有限量版的櫻花香水(妹妹送的),碧兒泉的活力香氛、水生花香調的三宅一生,Lush的冥想香水(小澤送的第一份禮物,柑橘加上東方調)都是清爽自然的味道。不喜歡甜膩的,不喜歡粉味的,所以很多知名女性香水跟我不合,相反的,很多支中性香水倒是讓我流連忘返。寶格麗的綠茶和大吉嶺讓我頭腦清晰,愛馬仕的地中海花園和尼羅河花園給我旅行中自在的味道,歐舒丹不含酒精的蜂蜜節寶寶淡香水最適合在睡前擁抱,最近愛上的這瓶Mure et Musc Extreme(黑莓謬思女性淡香精) 也是一瓶中性香水,它讓我聞到了乾淨,優雅,怡然自得,雖然是三十年前的作品了,氣味還是年輕的。很愛花,但是很少在花香香水上聞到真實的味道,玫瑰主題的香水更是讓我放棄嘗試的一個遺憾,但是果香似乎較容易捕捉,也不容易令人失望,果香為主調的香水多是愉悅的。尋找香氣是一件美好的事,遇到適合自己的香水就像是遇到一個很懂自己的人一樣,就像最近才發現幾款我常用的的香水,雖然來自不同品牌,竟然都出自同一位調香師的手中,就是現任愛馬仕的首席調香師Jean-Claude Ellena。氣味在腦部的連接是動物最原始開發的一部份,但是對氣味的感受力,在每個人的身上又這麼不一樣,很有趣。下面是一個對Mure et Musc Extreme香水的review,作者寫的太棒了,我想我只能引用而不能再多加什麼了。


Blackberry_cluster

Blackberry_cluster

Fragrance Review: Mure et Musc and Mure et Musc Extreme by L’Artisan Parfumeur


I confess that I often forget that L’Artisan Mûre et Musc is going to celebrate its 30th anniversary in just two years. Created in 1978 by Jean Laporte, the original L’Artisan Parfumeur founder, it became one of the first fragrances exploring the softness of musk with minimal ornamentation.

What differentiates Mûre et Musc from earlier perfumes exploring the same theme, such Jovan Musk (1971), is its ingenious fusing of a blackberry note into the musk accord. While the synthetics nitromusks favoured in the first half of the century are marked by soapiness and floral warmth, many musks that became popular in the second half possess distinct fruity facets (please see my earlier article on the topic of musks.) …

By incorporating a blackberry note, Mûre et Musc creates a perfect natural harmony, which hardly needs any other embellishments, save for the cool aldehydic mist in the top notes and the soft woods in the base.

The marriage of fruit and musk is as wonderful as tomato and basil pairing in Italian cooking. Yet, I find the minimalist refinement of Mûre et Musc to be more interesting from the artistic standpoint. My preferred version to wear is Mûre et Musc Extrême, which followed the highly successful Mûre et Musc in 1993. Created by perfumer Karine Dubreuil who is also responsible for Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pivoine Magnifica, Eclat d’Arpege, and L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre, Mûre et Musc Extrême heightens the inky blackberry sweetness, seductively melting the jammy fruit over the musky base. The fruity richness fades as the composition develops, but it marks the animalic breath of musk with pleasing sweetness.

Admittedly, at times it can have an effect of a melody that keeps haunting despite one’s efforts to forget it, but one cannot fault Mûre et Musc Extrême for not being memorable. The best thing about either Mûre et Musc or Mûre et Musc Extrême is that their fruity notes lack the all too frequent associations with either fruit salads or popsicles. Neither smells like anything I would be tempted to eat.

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